Kakabeka Falls is located in the Kakabeka Falls
Provincial Park, on Hwy 11/17 west of Thunder Bay. It was as
spectacular as a falls can be, short of Niagara Falls. As the
Kaministiquia River meanders from Lake Michigan on its way west
to the Pacific Ocean, it passes over a 128 foot drop off onto a
slate riverbed cut out over the eons, and exposing a history of
the surrounding land for over a billion years. Some of the oldest
fossils in existence were found at the base of the falls.
For centuries, the Kaministiquia River served as part of a major
travel route to the west; it was the first link in a chain of
lakes and rivers that led from Lake Superior into the heart of
the continent, reaching Rainy River, the Athabasca country and,
ultimately, the Pacific Ocean.
The first travelers of the water highway were the native peoples
of Canada, plying the wild rivers in fragile birchbark
canoes. The Ojibwa, also called Chippewa or Saulteaux, have long
been associated with the Lake Superior region. As the Ojibwa
moved westward, they came into conflict with neighbouring Sioux;
it was this traditional rivalry which inspired the legend of
Greenmantle. The Ojibwa used the Kaministiquia (also called the
Kam) for their own travels, and later acted as skilled guides and
canoeists for the European traders who followed in their
footsteps.
Daniel Greysolon, ennobled as Sieur Dulhut, was the first of
these traders to set up a post at the mouth of the Kam. It is
believed that his Fort Kaministiquia may have been established as
early as 1678 or 1679, but as Dulhut's own journals from these
years have been lost, it may never be known for certain. What is
certain is that in 1688, Pierre-Jacques Payen de Noyan became the
first European to ascend the Kaministiquia River and reach the
Lake of the Woods. He was also the first to be confronted with
the formidable 1349 m (1475 yard) long Mountain Portage which
bypasses Kakabeka Falls. For the next four decades, voyageurs
would use de Noyan's route to carry trade goods west and valuable
furs east.
It was not an easy journey as the Kaministiquia River drops 199 m (654 feet) between Dog Lake and the base of Kakabeka Falls, a linear distance of only 56 km (35 miles). Dissatisfied with the Kam's 13 portages, five sets of rapids and very strong current, explorers eagerly sought an easier route to the rich trapping areas of the West.
THE LEGEND OF GREENMANTLE
Ogama Eagle, the powerful
Chief of the Ojibwa Indians in the Thunder Bay region, had one
child - a daughter named Greenmantle. The princess was tall and
graceful, with dark eyes and jet black hair. This child of the
woodland was much loved by her people and renowned as a dancer.
When Greenmantle had passed her seventeenth summer, the
traditional Ojibwa territory along the shore of Lake Superior was
invaded by the neighboring Sioux. The enemy warriors captured
Greenmantle, and held her captive in their camp on Dog Mountain.
After a time, the Sioux forced her to guide them down the
Kaministiquia so that they might launch a surprise attack on an
unsuspective Ojibwa camp.
Pretending to betray her people, Greenmantle led the war canoes
down river, toward Kakabeka Falls. Skillfully, she paddled her
lead canoe through turbulent white water, with the Sioux in
breathless pursuit. She was determined to foil the enemy's
planes, even at the cost of her own life.
Just as Greenmantle was about to enter the swirling waters above
the falls, she swerved toward the west bank, leaped from her
canoe and swam to shore. This unexpected maneuver so caught the
Sioux flotilla by surprise, they were quickly drawn into the
rapids. Many were swept over the falls to the jagged rocks below.
Greenmantle fled in triumph down the portage trail to alert her
people, and the Ojibwa were able to hold back the remaining Sioux
forces. A last battle was fought on the Welcome Islands, near
Thunder Bay, where the Sioux were decisively defeated.
Another version of the legend states that Greenmantle, too,
perished over the falls when she tricked the Sioux. Her spirit,
it is said, lingers in the mist as a rainbow, while the voices of
the angry Sioux cry continuously from the roaring waters below.
Besides the Falls, the Provincial Park offers camping, hiking and
picnicking areas for the whole family. There is a charge to go
into the park, but was well worth the price.
Laura