As we talked with our first docent, she explained
what it was like to live in a fishing village next to the Fort.
Life was simple and somewhat harsh at times. The main staple was
cod. The method of acquiring this money crop was a fishing net
thrown off a small rowboat or sailboat. The nets were all hand
made using a simple locking stitch with the assistance of a small
piece of wood. After watching her for a few loops, I tried my
hand. At first I was all thumbs and then as I practiced, I began
to see the loops appear. It was a long and tiring process and
one, for which, I would not readily volunteer to make a living
at. Still if I'm ever trapped on a tropical island, I might just
make a net and catch fish. From the fishing hut to the main gate
to the Fort was a short walk over a draw bridge with a moat
below. The moat is kept dry during peaceful times. A sluice gate
at the bridge controls the flow of water into the moat. During
times of siege, soldiers would
cross the dry moat to take up defensive
positions on the far side. As they were driven back, they would
retreat back across the moat, through a winding passageway and
into the fort proper. The sluice gate would then be opened from
the inside and the water let in. In the 1700s the gate, one of
three, would remain open during daylight hours. As night would
fall, the drawbridge would be raised and the fort would be closed
to traffic for the night. An officer and 30 soldiers would be on
duty at all times, protecting this entrance. As we passed by in a
small group, the lone guard challenged us, asking pointed
questions in an attempt to determine if any of us were British
spies, a common problem in these troubled times, as he explained.
Having passed through the gate, I could imagine the intimidating
feelings of those who arrived. A narrow walkway led from the gate
to the town several hundred yards away. To the left lay the bay,
its waters lapping against the side of the path. To the right was
a foreboding wall, stretching high above our heads. Every few
feet on the wall was a firing point. These breaks in the top
allowed marksmen to pour down a rain of musket fire on those
unfortunate enough to
be caught on the path uninvited. Behind the
wall to the right, and up the hill to the highest point of the
town stood the largest building within the structure. The Citadel
was a fortification unto itself. This was the government center,
containing the Governor's apartment, a barracks for the garrison,
and the only chapel in the town. The building became the center
of activity for trade and defense. At its height, over 500 people
lived and worked within the walls. We were free to wander as we
pleased, through the many reconstructed rooms, offices and
apartments. There were storerooms and power rooms as well as
sleeping quarters. In the center was a large parade field. The
ramparts were dotted with cannons whose line of sight covered
every possible approach to the enclosure.
From here we wandered down into the town proper
and visited many of the shops and homes. There were examples of
the very rich aristocrats, the middle class and the sea going
rowdies that hung around the docks. Every so often we would come
upon a gathering in one of the buildings. Several docents would
have gotten together and we either listened or sometimes joined
in on conversations that would have pertained to the interests
of the day.
What came in on the latest ship arriving from France seemed to be
the most interesting topic. There was also concern for safety as
the British were always about making trouble for everyone. The
Town is laid out on half a dozen cross streets. There are quite a
few buildings to visit, and more are being created as time and
money permit. The whole day was an experience in reliving a
period which has long since passed. Going back in time is a
fascination for many people and this is as close to it as is
possible under normal conditions. I would put this adventure
right up near the top of the "must see" list for the
Maritime Proviences.
*** THE END ***