There is a terrific story
just outside an otherwise unimpressive community in the middle of nowhere
called Alamogordo. The story of the white sands of New Mexico
started millions of years ago when a giant inland sea that
covered this part of the planet, evaporated, leaving behind a
layer of a form of calcium sulfate called gypsum. As time passed
the earth suffered a great upheaval and a giant mound was pushed
up. Later the center of the mound collapsed, forming the Tularosa
Basin with the walls becoming what is now the San Andres and
Sacramento Mountains.
One of the properties of gypsum is that it can
exist in a crystal, a sand, or in a liquid state as dissolved in
water. In relatively recent times, rain running down from the
mountains, dissolved the gypsum, carrying it into the basin. As
the basin has no outlet, water remains trapped in low areas. One
such area is known as Lake Lucero. With no way out, the water
eventually evaporates leaving the gypsum in a crystal form along
the banks
of the lake. Weather conditions soon begin to
break up the crystals into small particles resembling sand. A
relatively constant wind out of the Southwest picks up the
granules and blows them northeast until they form the largest
gypsum dune field on earth, covering some 275 square miles. A
portion of this dune field is made up of the White Sands National
Monument, with its entrance some 13 miles west of Alamogordo.
This phenomena is something to see. As we drove along the only
access road, a stretch of 8 miles or so into the middle of the
field, the stark contrast between the dunes and the chaparral
around them was
reminiscent of a star wars movie set. We
stopped at the first trail, which was about a mile in length
across a section of the dunes which had more vegetation than many
of the other locations. Although most plants cannot survive the
rapid movement of the dunes and are subsequently destroyed as
they are covered up, others like the soaptree yucca have adapted
by growing faster then the movement of the sand, extending their
leaves as much as a foot per year. Other plants can anchor part
of the dune with their roots and continue to grow on a pedestal
of sand after the dune moves on. The sand itself fooled me. I
expected to sink deep into the ridges as if it were ocean sand.
Not so. Not only did I stay on top; I was unable to embed a
spiked walking stick sufficiently to allow it to stand by itself.
Although completely dry, the density was unbelievable. Running
around on it was fairly easy. Another remarkable
quality was
the purity of the sand, especially near the top of a dune where
the wind deposited only the lightest of particles. Gypsum is
white, the whitest that white can get. On a bright day you can
get cooked both ways. As one of the great natural wonders of
North America, I found the whole scene fantastic. We completed
the mile walk and went on to other places, and other dunes where
I climbed, photographed and wandered. As big as the area is, and
without any controls over one's movement, getting lost could be a
problem. Some kind of orientation should be considered if you
intend to walk outside shouting range of the main traveling area.
Although they are all quite beautiful and each one unique in
shape, most dunes do look alike and getting turned around is
easy.
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